Vintner Views – June 2006

Pondering the Multitudes

   In last month’s column we discussed the history of wine grape growing in Colorado, which began shortly after the Highline Canal was finished.  Wine grapes were big in the late 1800’s, and then were severely set back by prohibition.  Since then wine growing has made a big comeback and wineries are thriving again.  Visitors frequently ask which grapes do best here.  The short answer is that we’re learning as we gain experience.  The long answer follows.

   Most wine grapes are of the same species: Vitus Vinifera.  This is the original, European grape vine that has traditionally been made into wine of various sorts since prehistoric times.  They bear only a slight resemblance to table grapes.  Wine grapes are small, round, have thick skins and rather large seeds.  They are quite sweet and tart and are usually either very dark blue, or light golden green at maturity.  The dark blue grapes are usually made into red wine, so they are called red grapes.  The golden green grapes are typically made into white wine, so are known as, you guessed it, white grapes.

   Within Vitis Vinifera, there are a large number of grape varieties, including Merlot, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon.  Almost every winery has at least one of these “Big Three” because they’re well-known, they’re a safe bet for growers and wineries, and the wines can be quite nice.  However, there may be other varieties that, if done properly, might really set us apart from the other growing areas, not just because they’re different, but because the wine is frequently excellent.

   Here in the valley we have a few other varieties that seem to do quite well.  Topping the list would be Syrah.  This variety, also known as Shiraz, saw a rapid increase in Colorado plantings in the first few years of the century, but has slowed down in the last few years. Syrah is the best-known variety from the Rhone region of France.  It usually makes a robust, dark red wine and accounts for about 9% of plantings in the state.

   Another variety from the Rhone is Viognier (Vee Oh Nyay), which is a white grape.  Often Viognier is blended in small amounts with Syrah for its aromatic qualities.  Viognier’s greatest virtue is the potential for fabulously intense fruit character, ranging from tropical notes of guava, pineapple, papaya, and mango to lilacs, melon, peach, and jasmine.  We see Viognier as the top pick for a distinctive, high quality white wine.  It accounts for only about 3% of grapes planted in the state.  We feel it should be much higher due to its extremely fruity character and unique medium-to-heavy body and mouthfeel.

   On the grower’s side, Viognier performs well, both in yield and price, creating the best return on investment of all grape varieties listed on the CSU growers survey for the last five years.  What’s not to like?  The biggest concern for sales of the wine is the difficult  pronunciation, and that is just a matter of  exposure and education.

   Another variety that is quickly gaining favor is Riesling (“Reez Ling” or “Rees Ling”).  It accounts for about 10% of the state’s grape growing area, and has the steepest growth curve of all varieties listed.  It’s a versatile grape that can make a dry or sweet wine.  Most wineries make it in a slightly sweet style.

   One variety that’s not even on the chart yet, but possibly should be, is Tempranillo (Temp Rah NEE Oh).  This is a Spanish grape and makes a dark red wine.  About 5 years ago, a world-renowned viticulturist suggested Tempranillo as one of the best potential grapes for our climate.

   There will never be full consensus on what the “best” varieties are, but over time, we’ll see some trends, and ultimately, the market will help us decide what grapes to plant and vinify.

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